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About Artisan Crafts / Hobbyist Member BrianMale/United States Recent Activity
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Because I've started doing this more recently, I decided to start to catalog some things.  I'm only going to be giving vague price ranges, nothing's absolute until I know exactly what I'm working with.

That being said, there are several different ways for me to fix areas.  I have a plethora of scrap POM and Nylon pieces, and some can be modified to fit certain areas.  While I make sure the setups are tough in general, you do lose some structural stability when I modify pieces from their original molds.  That's because of A: centerline pororsity (thinned areas in the center of the mold due to the outer surface cooling more quicker), and B: voids (bubbles usually centered in the plastic, sometimes they're closer to the surface, and I can even hit them working on preexisting pieces sometimes).
There's also scratch built pieces, used from extruded POM, both generic and not.  The plastic I'm using is consistent with, given all of the figures I've tried out, both the robot damashii 00 Seven Swords and Strike Gundam (I've only ever seen one report of one of these breaking, and it was because of the immense stress applied on the joint).  It's extremely tough but given the right amount of stress, will not show much signs of breaking, and simply breaks.  Which isn't to say it'll break easily... at all, but it really doesn't show much elongation at break.  Now, that's only for my Delrin 150 E, which I have in Natural (off white) and black.  The black appears a great deal weaker, kind of like the modern SHF Iron man and war machine, so I'll only use it if you absolutely want something to be black.  I have a generic black POM that has a much greater elongation at break, and I think from this point forward I'll be using that more often than the delrin, OR more often for sockets rather than things which require a great deal more toughness, rather than elongation.  The generic black POM feels kind of like older SHF figures or some D-Arts figures.  Contrary to what it may seem, a lot of D-Arts plastic isn't breaking because of its strength, but the setup.. which is usually atrocious.  The joint sections are too thin, too tight, etc.

Choice summaries:
-Using only the original pieces; gluing and buffering with metals or scrap
-Scrap POM/nylon, extremely modified, from gluing sections on to others to ignoring voids almost completely.
-Scrap POM/nylon, very little modification
-Scrap and scratch built.  Probably the most efficient option, less pricey and doesn't take as much time.
-Scratch built, no centerline porosity or voids, more efficiency for specific part width and etc, more expensive.  Very little choices in color, only black and white, I would suggest always using the white as it's not hindered by the dye.

All of these choices can be applied to original pieces if you wish that to be, the first one just excludes all of the ones below.

Similarly for all choices, I will make the attempt to paint areas which show up on the final product, or hide them with PVC or ABS covers.  POM and Nylon cannot bond well to most things, as such it's very difficult to paint without it easily expelling them from rubbing alone.  However, that being said, most setups will have to be attached with glues.  For example, attaching a double sided ball bar to the crotch area.  I usually include rivets so once the glue has dried, it won't break the bond, and even if it did, it won't remove the piece (I've never had a glue bond on POM break in areas like this, only when I glue straight POM on POM does it tend to break easily.

You also have the choice of allowing me to reengineer the sections that were one broke.  For example, instead of relying on pulldown hips on a certain figure, I can either A: do a normal hip setup without the excess articulation, if you don't really care, or B: set it up so that the sockets are closer towards the front, and lower, so they allow for a similar amount of articulation.  The problem is usually that it's NOT as articulated, but sometimes more so.  The ultimate benefit is strength, since you have a single center rod instead of 3 pieces combined together.  Keep in mind that even if you just want a replacement piece for, let's say, and SHF hip replacement, I still tend to make them larger so they're less likely to snap.

A recent project, while still getting my barrings setup, was $27 for an ass plate addition and hip replacement on D-Arts Knight Blazer.  After the work, thought it was hard, I realized I had done a lot less scratch work, so I covered shipping (the initial price wasn't ever intended to include shipping).

Everything said, every situation will be discussed a great deal before actually getting started.

I also prefer doing things in bulk, so please please be sure to get everything you want fixed altogether, because you'll also get a minor price decrease with this.


Bomberman Scratch Build Joint Setup Progress 1 by Lalam24
Bomberman Scratch Build Joint Setup Progress 1
So I'm working on a bomberman figure, and decided on this appearane, even though I can't for the life of me find the source.  I shopped the pose to be more uniform, then went from there.

Some of the lineart for the joints is still a bit hard to udnerstand, but once the majority is done I'll do a key and a writeup about certain segments.

Head joint is something I want some advice on. Option A is essentially just the head sliding on the rounded portion of the body, while B is the appearance of the head being able to slide around on the body + the previous option included, but it sacrifices appearance.

So should I have a little circular section (it's just a sliding disc), or save the appearance a bit and only have the head move via the body's upper contours (very limited in comparison)?
Captain Lalam Design Notes by Lalam24
Captain Lalam Design Notes
This is like 1/10 of the actual sketches for Captain Lalam, and probably not even the best (these range over a period of about 4 years).

Captain Lalam's essentially Project Lalam with more realism built in.  Project Lalam started about 7 years ago, back then I didn't have a name for it, and I started to ditch the cartoony look for a more realistic approach while developing it.  Later I separated and refined both designs in several different iterations.

The first partially finished design is probably the only thing drawn within this year.

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Heavenandhell813 Featured By Owner 4 days ago  Hobbyist General Artist
thanks for the fave!
Deluuu Featured By Owner Oct 17, 2014  Student
Thanks for the fav! C:
Natacha3 Featured By Owner Oct 16, 2014
Hey ! Thank you for the fav !
Erzsabet Featured By Owner Oct 16, 2014  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Thanks for the favorites, I appreciate it!
SoulWarrior135 Featured By Owner Sep 30, 2014  New member Hobbyist General Artist
Thanks for the favorite ^^
Barajara Featured By Owner Aug 23, 2014  New member Hobbyist General Artist
You got some excellent skills going dude
MelianOfMist Featured By Owner Aug 19, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
chibi sign thanks for faving by MelianOfMist
DavidCoates Featured By Owner Aug 19, 2014  Hobbyist Digital Artist
Thanks for the favs! :) (Smile)
sigmaligre Featured By Owner Aug 16, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
thanks for the fave! i love your works on the toa :)
MandalorianKnight Featured By Owner Aug 10, 2014  Hobbyist Photographer
Thank you for the fave.
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