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deviation in storage by EnzanEXE
Silicone fluid referenced for purchase and use in this article: “Team Associated (Factory Team) Silicone Shock Fluids” (Lucas Oil Products)
POM(H = Homopolymer)(C = Copolymer) Polyoxymethylene  – synonyms: acetal, polyacetal; other brands: Hostaform, Delrin, Celcon
Silicone fluid referenced: Polydimethylsiloxane – synonyms: PDMS, Silikonol, silicone oil, silicon oil, dimethicone, dimethylpolysiloxane, polysiloxane,
    Forms: Terminations (end blocking agents): trimethylsiloxy, dihydroxy, hydroxy, vinyl, etc.
There are a lot of different ways to synthesize PDMS.  After talking to some industry experts, a basic, trimethylsiloxy PDMS is inert, and shouldn't ever harm plastic.  Certain chemical additives are thrown into the mix to change the viscosity and etc, and these are presumably the reason for degradation in plastics.  Cyclosiloxanes, though similarly inert, are what you want to remove from silicone fluids in order to create high "purity" oils.  The problem is that they're extremely volatile, and you don't want some of your oil evaporating during active use.  Linear PDMS, synthesized from the cyclics, aren't volatile.  Cyclosiloxanes are specifically used for hair care products and the like given you want evaporation.  I'm having a hard time finding much information on specific cyclic blends which may not be volatile, but it's safe to assume some do exist.  A lucas oil rep told me, separate from the one who answered my questions about the plastics, that it's cyclic.  He may have gotten some bum info or that may actually be the case.  Either way, I'm in the dark about a lot of chemical specifics because of trade secrecy.

This is the second draft, as the first was filled with unnecessary notes discussing the research I did.  The conclusion is that the silicone oil produced by Lucas Oil is specifically meant for, and cannot damage, POM, PVC (unplasticized + plasticized), ABS, Nylon, rubber, etc (based on information they gave me based on their own testing).  So you're fine using it on anything you want (the only one I'm uncertain of is Polyethylene, which are those polycaps/rubbery plastic sockets on gundam models).  All studies stating possible degradation from silicone oils are linear trimethylsiloxy/trimethylsilyl terminated PDMS from the 70s.  The degradation is nominal, and most of it was done at extreme temperatures (there has since been thermal stability improvements on specific silicones).  That being said, given there are very few indepth studies between plastics and different PDMSs, I cannot say with completely accuracy that all modern silicones meant for plastic cannot damage plastic.  Either way, given that a basic, trimethylsiloxy terminated PDMS is inert alone, it's safe to assume that Lucas Oil went out of their way to synthesize new, more efficient products for safety and thermal purposes, reducing those nominal effects, rather than assuming it's somehow magically worse.  SPECIFICS: Trade secrecy prevents me from obtaining more than the following -- the silicone oil by Lucas Oil is a blend, presumably homogeneous.  It is not chemically equivalent to SF 96 or other "pure" silicone fluids.  It may very well be hydroxy/vinyl terminated, but again, I have no clue.  People always assume that pure silicone oil is safe, and that if it ever has adverse effects it must contain harmful additives.  A silicone oil needs different properties in order to achieve different viscosities.  So, while TMSO terminated PDMS is inert, using different chemicals which are still siloxanes (in other words, they can still say "100% PDMS" on the MSDS) can sometimes have adverse effects on plastics.  Some effects on SF 96 or similar GE silicone fluids, still just TMSO terminated PDMS, to plastics like ABS aren't nominal: Viscasil(super high viscosity liquids from GE which are chemically the same as SF 96) damages ABS.  It's no secret either -- GE has their own chemical resistance charts for their ABS, Cycolac, and state incompatibility between Viscasil and the resin.  There's also those rubix cube lubricants, specifically Lubix Cube, which are "100% polydimethylsiloxane," and are specifically formulated not to damage ABS, which, again, informs me that it isn't the PDMS causing the problem, but the additional siloxanes.

There are two different situations where silicone oil should be used: one, which will be the primary focus of this article, is to prevent creep; the other is extreme tightness.

Creep is defined as “the tendency of a solid material to move slowly or deform permanently under the influence of mechanical stresses,” or, for the sake of our toys, it’s when friction is built up too much, heating up the material, expanding and increasing viscosity to extreme points.  We usually see this on Bandai figures, specifically figuarts, robot damashii, etc.  It also causes particles to shred from the plastic, which buffer the sockets, causing more creep.  Usually, if you pop off a joint and clean it off, it’ll stop creeping and be a little less tight.  When that happens, it will happen again.  And in most cases, even when it’s degraded the majority of what keeps the plastic tight, it still creeps.  It’s something which is usually inevitable from what I’ve seen on figures using POM-H on POM-H sockets.  Silicone oil (100% polydimethylsiloxane) lubricates at specific viscosities to allow for almost no degradation on the plastic.  I completely advise people to use medium (around 500 cSt, 40 wt) viscosity silicone fluids on ALL Tamashii based products when purchased, so that the creeping doesn’t ever have to occur.  Once it occurs, there’s a loss in plastic, so even if you have the exact same amount of silicone fluid in it than you would’ve from the start, it will not be as tight.  That being said, you will also loosen joints beyond the intended point with silicone oils.  As any buffer would do, the socket will expand to adapt.  A primary example would be placing a buffer of tissue or glue on a joint, then removing it.  It will be more loose than it was before tightening.  However, it this isn’t to say it will constantly expand, because only so much pressure is being applied for it to warp completely.

POM-C (figmas, some newer sockets on robot damashiis) though weaker, almost never creeps, though plastic wear is inevitable no matter what plastic you use.  But in reality, you should probably be just fine without any oil on your figmas.

Relating to a previous point, try to not use too much, as you'll loosen it beyond the effects of the lubricant itself.  You want to make sure to cover the entire joint with as thin a layer as possible.  You want to use medium viscosity grades because the higher it is, the more it'll slug.  Honey is an extremely viscous compound, for example, but it doesn't ever sit in one place, like water might.  If it's too thin, it'll feel more loose, just lock up a bit too often, and it's honestly a pain to deal with.  If it's too high, it won't be able to hold a pose at all unless it's an extremely tight joint.  So if you are out to cure extremely tight joints, go for about 700 cSt grades.  But for general use, keep it around 500 cSt, 40 wt.

Side note:
This next bit is somewhat irrelevant to modern silicone oils made specifically for use on RC cars and the like, but since I did do all of the work, I might as well post it:

There’s an issue being consistently debated among RC or electronic vehicle communities -- what degrades the performance for POM-H (almost exclusively referred to as Delrin on these forums).  Greases, silicone fluids, and water have been the primary chemicals in question.  Several different arguments have been made, virtually none of them being solved.  Given an extreme amount of research, I’ve still not been able to conclude my results 100%.  At extreme temperatures, silicone fluids (presumed to be polydimethylsiloxane, trimethylsiloxane terminated) can be more easily absorbed into POM, allowing for quicker degredation.  This is similar to the effect of hot water on POM.  The maximum amount of water that can be absorbed into Delrin, a standard POM-H at 23 degrees C, is 1.4% (ISO 62) (POM-C: .9%)(the absolute maximum is about 1.8% on delrin).  A standard polyacetal (presumed homopolymer) managed to change only by .02% its weight submerged into a standard trimethylsiloxy terminated PDMS (sf 96, viscasil, etc) at 70 degrees C (meaning it'll absorb more) and during a course of 20 days.  It also changed its volume by .08%, which is similarly negligible.  Altogether, it showed no corrosion (given both figures were adding on to the weight, so I doubt there could've been any), and would, at the same amount of moisture absorbed in the air (50% relative humidity) at 23C, which was .3% (POM-H; POM-C is .2%) within 24 hours (ISO 62), only be able to absorb 0.00003% methyl end blocked PDMS.  Similar linear PDMSs do remove plasticizers from PVC and do nominally degrade ABS (no clue how or why).

See the other page for a rough draft and a great deal more notes/references. (some of which aren't valid anymore as they don't refer to Lucas Oil's specific chemical makeup)

(not cited properly because fuck you)
-Polyoxymethylene Handbook: Structure, Properties, Applications and their Nanocomposites -- Sigrid Lüftl, Visakh P. M., Sarath Chandran
-Chemical Resistance of Thermoplastics -- Sina Ebnesajjad, William Woishnis
-Beständigkeit von Kunststoffen, Band 1 -- Gottfried W. Ehrenstein, Sonja Pongratz
-Schmierfette, Zusammensetzung, Eigenschaften, Prü-fung und Anwendung (including some of its earlier editions, under separate titles) -- Gerd Dornhöfer, Wilfried J. Bartz
-Kuntstoffe (science journal)
-Polymer (science journal, english version of the above, both contain some material the others do not have)
-Colloid and Polymer Science (science journal)

misc links, some of which may include material from the above…………………………………………………………

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UraHameshi Featured By Owner 1 day ago  Student Interface Designer

Hey there! Thanks for your kind visit and fave, I appreciate your support :) If you would like to see more art and/or crafts submissions I invite you to watch me and expect more stuff from me!

SubzeroChimera Featured By Owner 2 days ago
Thanks for the tonne of favourites btw!
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